Tuesday, 3 August 2010
Blush, the proper way!
I have always wanted to post a blush-related article, mainly due to the fact that this is probably the hardest skill to acquire among all makeup application techniques. OK, so I want to say that I will divide this title in 3 subheadings (what blush is & types of blushes; blush application tools; applying blush accordingly to your face lines and shape). I shall also try to make it as concise as possible, as I do realize my latest articles do tend to get quite extensive.
1. What Blush is & Types of Blushes:
Blush is a pigmented substance that is used to either contour or highlight specific zones of your face. The majority of makeup artists use it for defining and contouring purposes, but there are those, who use it otherwise. Blushes vary in color and texture. There are all kinds of blushes, in terms of color and you should be sensible of what color goes well on your complexion. For example- (really) fair complexion: try pink and peachy blushes, avoid brown as they tend to age you. Moderate facial tan: go for more pigmented peachy or light brown/beige, provided beige is visible onto your face. Dark complexion: highly pigmented pink and around that gamut.As I mentioned before, blushes vary in texture, as well. There are cream blushes (liquid), powder blushes (dry & pressed) and emulsion-type ones (somewhere in-between dry & liquid). As for which ones to go for, it's really up to you, but keep in mind that powder blushes do tend to fall of easily and they might start coming down during the day and you may end up with blush over your jawbone. And with reference to cream blushes- they might "melt down" if sweaty or moist.
2. Blush application tools:
There are many ways of applying blush, but speaking of tools, I am referring to just one- brushes. I will be honest with you, blush application using brushes is extremely easy, but only when applying powder blush. The rest I prefer using fingers and sponges. Mainly focus on the following: Brushes: In most cases you will need an angled brush, as it makes blush application really more aesthetic even for those who have yet to master this particular skill. Sponge: Angled sponge is OBLIGATORY! And b extremely careful as these make a big mess if used improperly. Fingers: Probably offering the best control of what you do on your face; downside is- not really good blending techniques are available using fingers.
3. Applying Blush:
I already mentioned, but I want to second that- blush application is really difficult to master, but practice makes perfect. The most important step here is to figure out what shape your face is. The most common facial shapes are: Oval, Round, Long and Diamond (Square/Triangle). Once you figure this out, the rest is just following a couple of steps. All types of facial features share one same step. I am referring to the basic blush line that is to be applied before finalizing.
For the basic line to look natural (and when applying blush the point is to look NATURAL) you need to follow a simple rule: Make a "fish-face" (suck In your cheeks hard and apply blush over the deep line that has formed), following the line mid-ear - lip corner and do NOT blend in, yet. Now bear in mind your own facial shape and continue:
A. Oval: Blend the basic line upwards towards the cheek bones. Now, smile really hard and where right onto your cheekbones flesh should have gathered. Apply blush in circular motions (to form a circle) right on the gathered flesh over your cheek bones (resembling a doll face).
B. Round: Blend down, towards jawbone. Then apply blush onto your cheek bones and blend towards the nose, in the form of triangles. This will give your face a more sharp look, contrasting the round shape of the face.
C. Long: Blend in circular motions towards your under-eye area. Now, apply a bit more blush onto your cheek bones and blend in crescent-like motions, going from mid-ear to mid-nose. This will soften the sharp look your face gives away.
D. Diamond: This shape is a mixture between long, oval and triangle. Most typical features- sharp chin and visibly angled jawbone. Important- avoid round application of blush. Instead, blend lightly the basic line and leave it there. Now, get a small amount of blush on the tip of your brush and apply in rectangular motions on your cheek bones. This will soften the sharp look, by directing the attention to your blush.
Essentials: Avoid stacking blush, as it will look caky and NOT natural. It is crucial to blend in.